Reducing Silver Chloride

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Succes !!!

I have before me now a bead of shiny silvery silverish silver! :p
Weight: 9 grams.

What is the black smoke coming from the hot crucible? Silver vapor?

AgCl + borax = bubbling/foaming + Cl + Ag seems to happen at about 800°C, crystalising out metallic silver until temperature rises enough to melt the produced silver.

What's so special about the borax that it helps consolidate the silver into a metallic state? Can anyone explain the physics of that to me?

By the way, all my AgCl was dry.
The lump I have sound like a brick if tapped and I scrape off the amounts I test with (pretty easy) why does everyone insist to keep it wet?

Other crucibles I found in my stock: Stainless steel.
What are the up and downsides of these?
 
Sylar said:
Succes !!!
I have before me now a bead of shiny silvery silverish silver! :p
Weight: 9 grams.
Congratulations! I knew you could do it! :wink:

What is the black smoke coming from the hot crucible? Silver vapor?
I don't have a clue. Unless you are overheating the silver, there shouldn't be any vapor coming from it, but you may be seeing other contaminants burning off. If you failed to wash the cemented silver well, you may be seeing some of the aluminum that was included. GSP or Lou may have an idea what you're seeing.

AgCl + borax = bubbling/foaming + Cl + Ag seems to happen at about 800°C, crystalising out metallic silver until temperature rises enough to melt the produced silver.
I'm short on the chemistry end of things, so I'm at the mercy of what I read, and don't often understand everything even then. In that regard, one of the things I have been lead to believe is that if you heat silver chloride without a reducer, it doesn't convert to elemental silver well, and much of it is lost as vapor, although I have no clue what form it might be.

Regards the above statement, I stand to be corrected, and the subject has come up before, but the evidence at hand, the result of using soda ash in that capacity, is hard to disprove.

I gathered from my research, long ago, that soda ash acts as a reducer. I've been told I'm wrong, but something has to explain the fact that you can heat an old contaminated dish that is heavily coated with borax, then add some soda ash to the mix and end up with metal that wasn't there prior to the addition of the soda ash.

As it mixes with the dirty borax, you start seeing bits of metal appear. Eventually the color of the dirty borax is much lighter, and a nice sized button of metal has appeared. That, to me, indicates that the soda ash is reducuing the oxides that were absorbed by the borax. If I'm wrong, I stand to be corrected, but it will take a serious amount of lecturing to make me see it differently, considering I recovered well over 200 ounces of gold from waste materials, along with a like amount of silver, using that process.

What's so special about the borax that it helps consolidate the silver into a metallic state? Can anyone explain the physics of that to me?
Technically? No, I can't. But it does absorb impurities that might otherwise prevent the silver from fusing. It also "lubricates" the silver, allowing it to flow freely. You'll have to trust the input from others that understand chemistry far better than I do if that isn't correct, or isn't enough information. I gave it my best shot.

By the way, all my AgCl was dry.
The lump I have sound like a brick if tapped and I scrape off the amounts I test with (pretty easy) why does everyone insist to keep it wet?
To prevent you having to scrape off what you need! My normal process was to allow it to accumulate in a jar, even if it got well darkened by exposure to light. No big deal, all I was going to do eventually was recover the silver. By keeping it wet you can readily handle the material. I see no advantage to storing it dry----and scraping it to get it in condition to be reduced seems like a lot of wasted effort to me. I say keep it wet, if for no other reason, convenience. Others may have a different viewpoint. Maybe they'll chime in.

Other crucibles I found in my stock: Stainless steel.
What are the up and downsides of these?
For melting?

BIG MISTAKE!

Molten metals are strong solvents of other metals. That means that what you melt in a stainless vessel is likely to dissolve a portion, or all of the vessel used for melting. If you were to flux, you'd also solder the lot to the vessel. Assuming it was heated long enough, you'd dissolve the wall to the point where you'd spring a leak, losing your values. You'd also contaminate the values because of the dissolution of the vessel. Makes no sense to purify a metal, only to contaminate it with something different when melting.

You can dissolve gold in molten lead and never get near gold's melting point. Same applies to other elements. Do all your melting in non-metallic vessels. Even if they don't dissolve, they tend to solder to the vessel.

Harold
 
Erm, you shouldn't just melt silver chloride by itself?! That is quite hazardous to your health and it just wastes your silver! You'd have better luck adding it to NaOH, filtering the Ag2O and melting that; that works a treat. Just fusing silver chloride with borax won't do much. Some of the silver disproportionates to silver and chlorine gas (so small you won't see the yellow), but the rest of it goes up as that black smoke, because it has a vapour pressure. Bad idea.

Your best bet is to try sodium carbonate, charcoal, and silver chloride. The sodium carbonate doesn't act as reducer in the traditional sense, because carbon's oxidation state remains the same. Instead, it serves to soak up the chloride off the silver, which forms table salt, which melts and volatilizes. There are some free electrons floating about that hit the Ag+ and reduce it; this can come from the chloride (silver is strong enough an oxidizer at those temperatures to oxidize chloride to chlorine). Anyway, really bizarre things happen at those temperatures. Pyrochemistry is never easy to define.

You can also use some copper or iron pieces to cement your silver chloride to silver metal. I prefer the use of NaOH because it will leave fine silver that isn't contaminated after melting (because the sodium volatilizes off).


Lou
 
Here's 2 patents for the reduction of silver chloride to silver metal, both by Kunda - 4306902 and 4388109. They require blending anhydrous sodium carbonate intimately (requires grinding together - he does it dry in a blender) with silver chloride and heating to a temperature of between 1058 F and 1157 F. If held within these limits, there is little, or no, attack on the crucible. Silver powder (finely divided), mixed with sodium chloride results. The sodium chloride is finally leached out with hot water. In practice, for 143 grams of silver chloride, 106 grams of anhydrous sodium carbonate is needed - 1 mole Na2CO3/1 mole AgCl. In the second patent, it took one hour to completely convert, at the required temperature.

I attended an IPMI refining seminar in 1980. One of the speakers gave a talk on silver chloride conversion and he felt that the Kunda method was the best. Both Harold and I have the same IPMI book that contains the papers from that seminar.

I have never attempted this method, but I have always felt that it sounded viable. The temperature range is critical. So is the intimate blending of the 2 chemicals.
 
Ah, so the black vapor was actually AgCl ... makes sense.

I tried with the Na2CO3 aswell and that DOES produce far better results! Mind you I'm working on lab scale, yesterdays output was 30 grams silver.

I just figured that, while adding AgCl to the crucible and Cl2 coming out of it that I must be getting full conversion to Ag. When pouring the molten mass in a carbon dish I immedialty saw it was no metal al all. So the chlorine I saw/smelt must have been "free chlorine" in the AgCl. I also read that there exist many forms of AgCl with all slightly varying chlorine contents, so perhaps +1000°C reverts them all to basic AgCl?

Anyway, I placed the still hot black mass in the crucible again on high heat and slowly started adding Na2CO3. It wasn't quite anhydrous, but there wasn't enough crystal water to make for much problems. Bubbling and foaming resulted with some close calls on the crucible level, but steady adding and careful control made out to a nice yield anyway.
The still unconverted AgCl was separated from the metal and saved for the next conversion run.

Meanwhile I have a bigger batch of AgCl under low concentration HCl (5-10%) with a piece of Al standing somewhere it can't do much harm. Next test on wet conversion will use some sulfuric acid and iron, since I'm fresh out of HCl.
What I still had was barely enough to neutralise the ammonia in which I tried dissolving some AgCl, only to come to the conclusion that 10% ammonia solution can't really dissolve much AgCl weight per weight.

Knowledge and experience where gathered, with some nice shiny Ag as reward! Life is good 8)
 
Lou,

I read somewhere, recently, that the reaction between the silver chloride and sodium carbonate, at elevated temperatures, is not a true reduction reaction, even though the silver is obviously reduced. I have looked for the source of that information, but can't find it. Here's the equation:

4AgCl + 2Na2CO3 = 4Ag + 4NaCl + 2CO2 + O2

I don't remember exactly what they said, but I think they said it was an exchange reaction, after the CO3 was broken down by the heat.

What is your take on this, Lou?
 
Harold_V said:
Technically? No, I can't. But it does absorb impurities that might otherwise prevent the silver from fusing. It also "lubricates" the silver, allowing it to flow freely. You'll have to trust the input from others that understand chemistry far better than I do if that isn't correct, or isn't enough information. I gave it my best shot.

Harold

Oh, but you could!

Borax is a flux, lowering the surface tension allowing the silver to flow (flux means flow).

It's also a rather efficient solvent for many metal oxides, removing them and forming a glassy compound that's low melting and immiscible with the silver.


@Sylar:
The small nodules (for lack of a better word) on your silver is a result of oxygen liberating from the solidifying silver, making the silver "foam".
 
Looks explainable ...

4AgCl + 2Na2CO3 = 4Ag + 4NaCl + 2CO2 + O2

So what happens at about 1000°C:
Na2CO3 can't exist at such high temperatures:
Na2CO3 => Na2O + CO2
CO2 escapes the reaction at a fairly early stage, starting decomposition at about 400°C. So this is what remains of the equation:

4AgCl + 2Na2O => 4Ag + 4NaCl + O2
The O2 probably gets trapped in the Ag, and the NaCl start to vaporise off ... getting rid of it all with take some time because boiling point is 1413°C according to the msds I found.


Thanks for explanation on borax Peter. I often forget about the solvent properties at such high temperatures. My thermocouple was the first victim of that. It's about 2 cm shorter from stirring the melt with it :roll: Thank god the silver produced a good solder connection or my temp reading would have been useless untill I got a new one. On the downside, my silver is now alloyed with some stainless steel and a bit of Ni and Cr. I guess I'll get rid of those in the series of experiments utilizing electrical current.
 
goldsilverpro said:
Lou,

I read somewhere, recently, that the reaction between the silver chloride and sodium carbonate, at elevated temperatures, is not a true reduction reaction, even though the silver is obviously reduced. I have looked for the source of that information, but can't find it. Here's the equation:

4AgCl + 2Na2CO3 = 4Ag + 4NaCl + 2CO2 + O2

I don't remember exactly what they said, but I think they said it was an exchange reaction, after the CO3 was broken down by the heat.

What is your take on this, Lou?

GSP,

Here's how Loewen describes the details of the reaction:

4AgCl + 2Na2CO3 = 2Ag2CO3 + 4NaCl

and via thermal decomposition

2Ag2CO3 = 2Ag2O + CO2

and finally through further thermal decomposition

2Ag2O = 4Ag + O2

Steve
 
Either way is fine by me, as long as I get some silver in return for my efforts :)

I have taken a liking to the Fe and H2SO4 process for the reduction of AgCl, so everything will be treated this way. Strange thing though, when I stir, I get brown gasses (NOx) bubbling up from the reaction :?:

What could be responsable for this? Residual Ag(NO3)2 decomposing?
 
Steve, that makes much better sense and that is a reduction reaction.

I should've remembered that silver carbonate decomposes immediately to Ag2O. Ag2CO3 is an intermediate and will be transient, the silver oxide less so. The slowest step is forming carbonate from the silver chloride. This reaction is an excellent example of thermodynamics driving a reaction that normally wouldn't occur but for the high temperature. All of the products but the silver are volatile, two being gases, and one being darn close.

Still, it would be naive to assume that even that nice, proper equation is strictly what is happening.

Also, the silver oxide trick is apparently a very old one indeed. I had great success with it any time I do it, but researching into it, it was known by chemists 500 years ago! Still very convenient.
 
If the tarnished layer is not too thick, then there might be a more simple solution available for you to clean the crystals. The proposed method is to electrochemically exchange the sulphur between the silver and another metal.
This video should explain the principle http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vGCx9HZwYBo :idea: , it works quite well, except for the surface appearance, it will not usually restore the polish.
 
A way to do this that produces no harsh vapors, and little or none hazardous waste is to mix the AgCl with sodium hidroxide (caustic soda) and use Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) to obtain the silver. The output (if using very clean AgCL is Ag, NaCL and water.
 
Here's how Loewen describes the details of the reaction:

4AgCl + 2Na2CO3 = 2Ag2CO3 + 4NaCl

and via thermal decomposition

2Ag2CO3 = 2Ag2O + CO2

and finally through further thermal decomposition

2Ag2O = 4Ag + O2


That's quite beautiful, isn't it? If cementing is like boxing, this is southern style kung fu !!! Who is that Loewen? Books? Articles?
 
Harold_V said:
Silver would be a problem in cost and fabrication, and not really necessary. Stainless is very acceptable...

Harold, in this old message thread on "Reducing Silver Chloride", you posted a design for a small silver cell. Apparently a number of people liked the design, but unfortunately the link is broken. This was the original link:

http://goldrefiningforum.com/~goldrefi/phpBB3/download/file.php?id=381
Silver cell-1.jpg
(24.64 KiB) Downloaded 913 times

Would you mind reposting the design, or just sending it to me?

As an aside, I'm a new member, so I spent about 3 months reading old messages and the various texts. In fact, I've produced a hypertext version of Hoke's book that I might release sometime in the new year. Anyway, reading so many old messages, one can't help notice how many bad links there are on this website.

When I ran a website 15 years ago I used a broken link detector. It crawled the site and issued a report on all bad links. I just googled "broken link detector" and there are lots to choose from. Some are free and others are part of commercial packages that generate all sorts of statististics about what page people go to, how long they stay, etc.

Merry Christmas
--
Bob
 
Tub Buster said:
Harold_V said:
Silver would be a problem in cost and fabrication, and not really necessary. Stainless is very acceptable...

Harold, in this old message thread on "Reducing Silver Chloride", you posted a design for a small silver cell. Apparently a number of people liked the design, but unfortunately the link is broken. Would you mind reposting the design, or just sending it to me?

Here's a picture of the cell in question. It's made of 1/16" thick 304 stainless, with welded corners. After welding, it was electropolished. A lug was welded to the back side to provide an attachment point, as the entire cell becomes the cathode. Anode contact was a silver "candlestick". Anode basket made entirely of polypropylene (I worked as a machinist when the cell was built). Note the two covers for the ends of the cell, intended to keep contamination (dust) out.

The strange looking device (the cross piece) is a template for cutting filters for the anode basket. They were cut from heavy filter material and sewn at the corners. Held in place by polypropylene clips.

Sloping sides are desirable, but they create their own problems. I chose to use 4" wide vinyl tape to isolate the sides, as they quickly grow crystals to the anode and create a short. The tape solved the problem.

I'm open to questions if you have any.

Harold
 

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Harold_V said:
PhillipJ said:
Harold. As always I try to read what yoHomes e to say. You explain things very well. For a month or so now, I have been thinking that YOU should write a book.

Chuckle! Well, if I thought I could find a dozen people weak enough in the head to buy a book I'd written, maybe I'd go for it. :lol:

Actually, I don't know that I'd be able. I've never lost sight of the fact that I don't understand why things work as they do--not having an education in chemistry. Mind you, it's not that I can't do a good job of refining----I can, and a damned good one at that, but I am nothing more than a trained monkey, very reliant on the things I learned by studying Hoke, plus a few other sources. When things go south, if it's not something I've experienced, I'm often at a loss to explain the problem. I don't think I'd feel any too good about having information published that was questionable, but I sure don't mind helping others achieve a level of performance that I achieved. That's why you see me here on this forum.

I was thinking about the sheet of aluminum that you are converting the silver chloride with. How would it work to put it in a dedicated aluminum frypan or aluminum pot, add the HCL & stir untill done? Also, I was thinking about that aluminum seal on the coffee cans would be good to use as a sheet of aluminum.

You'd be inviting a bunch of grief if you went the pan route, although I see nothing wrong with using a pan as a source of aluminum. Same goes with any aluminum, right down to aluminum cans if you can eliminate the printing. Just make sure you don't end up with a lot of tiny bits in the silver when it's fully converted.

The problem with using a pan?

Remember me saying that the aluminum gets dissolved in the process? That's exactly why it's not a good idea. The pan, in all likelihood, would have one thin spot and spring a leak when you least expected it to happen. Otherwise I see nothing wrong with the idea, so if you happen to have a few on hand (clean, no Teflon), or can pick them up cheaply at a second hand store, use them accordingly. You could even start out using the pan as you suggested, but make sure you have it sitting in something that will catch the solution and silver when it springs a leak.

I,m reading in Hoke about the cell used to purify silver, but so far I see nothing about the electrolyte that they use in it, and am having trouble finding the recipe here.

The electrolyte is made of silver, dissolved in nitric acid and distilled water. I don't have the information at hand, but there's a book by, I think, Butts & Coxe, that covers silver refining extensively. If I have the name of the authors wrong, I know GSP knows the book of which I speak and he can make corrections to my information.

My cell was used on a batch basis, running an anode that weighed about 200 ounces (troy). By the time I had refined that amount of silver, the copper content of the electrolyte had climbed to the point where it could start co-depositing copper along with the silver. That doesn't happen as long as the percentage of copper is low enough. You can tell when there's a change because the silver crystals tend to grow differently, long and hairy. I'd stop the cell when I approached that threshold and remove the electrolyte entirely, recover the silver within, and make new electrolyte from some of the pure crystal that came from the cell. That was an excellent test of the quality of the silver, for if it had any copper within, it showed in the electrolyte. On rare occasion when that was the case, I'd simply place the silver crystal back in the basket, place a new anode on top of the crystals, and go back to work after replacing the electrolyte. The silver came out beautifully that way, and I was assured of purity.

Running a cell is far more involved than the simple description, but I'm more than happy to give you guidance if you get that far along, including making your electrolyte.

On the subject of electrolyte, I think you'll read that the big boys don't do what I did, likely because their cells are ongoing, never shut down. Instead of replacing their electrolyte, they are constantly replacing a portion of it with new, keeping the copper/silver ratio at a desirable level. I've read that they actually rely on some copper for conductivity, although I'm having one hell of a hard time believing that's true considering there's a huge amount of silver in solution as compared to copper, and it's a far better conductor.

Harold


I would buy that book & I am sure many others here that would do the same.

Hokes is the only book in my refining library, looking to ad more.
 
There are probably thousands of posts on this subject on the forum, Harold, GSP, and many other members have discussed the silver cells extensively, you can find several types of silver cells and learn just about everything you would need to learn to build your own and understand how it works, and how to operate the cell.

It is all here on the forum waiting for you.
just like you found this post, you will find many more that will help to answer your questions, and help you to learn things you would not even think to ask. Just keep digging through the forum and you will find many of these treasures.
 
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