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For refining gold foils from the Acid/peroxide method you don't need nitric acid, just use hydrochloric acid and bleach to dissolve the foils and then precipitate the gold with smb.

If you are not sure how to do the Hcl/bleach method search the forum because there is countless posts on how it's done.
I have even explained the process a few times to other new members.
 
For refining gold foils from the Acid/peroxide method you don't need nitric acid, just use hydrochloric acid and bleach to dissolve the foils and then precipitate the gold with smb.

If you are not sure how to do the Hcl/bleach method search the forum because there is countless posts on how it's done.
I have even explained the process a few times to other new members.
Thanks there are so many different views on how things should be done, it's very confusing... I'm not a chemist nor do I want to be 🤔
I buy and sell antique watches and often have gold fill and rolled gold watches which can't be repaired so once or twice a year I'd like to recover the gold from them... That's all, I'm not interested in computer or e scrap just jewellery.
Nor do I have access to nitric acid.
I would just like to find someone who I can understand and be understood, with my specific project 😉
Thanks all...
 
I know curiosity killed the cat but.... I couldn't resist filtering the foils from my acid... (5 days in) 😉
Looking to learn the best way to remove the foils from the filter (coffee) without losing any?
See pic, thanks...
 

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I know curiosity killed the cat but.... I couldn't resist filtering the foils from my acid... (5 days in) 😉
Looking to learn the best way to remove the foils from the filter (coffee) without losing any?
See pic, thanks...
What method of dissolving are you planning?
Poor mans AR or HCl and Chlorine/Bleach?
 
Another question, what is used to test for gold in the acid mixture? I've seen people dip paper in the acid then dab it with something to see if it goes dark?
You need to study more mate.
The test you are talking about is Tin dissolved in HCl.
Then one drop on paper and one drop of the solution to test next to it and observe the color.
 
Watcher, it took me over a year and a half to read through all the posts on the forum the first time. It was well worth the effort. It's much like reading Hoke's book. You read it, and you sort of understand a lot of it. Then you read a lot of the forum and other outside information, and the next time you read through Hoke's book, a lot more of it makes sense. I've read it from cover to cover at least a half dozen times, and I learn more every time. It's a HUGE learning curve! But it is well worth the effort.

I've posted this before, but it's worth repeating here.

At first, you read a little and it seems to be simple and make sense.

As you read more, you start to see other processes, and conflicting information. There's so much new information, it can get very confusing.

As you continue, you're able to sort out the conflicting information, and it starts to make sense.

After much study you'll start to feel like you're really getting a handle on it all. You can answer most questions on the forum.

Then you read a post from Lou, and you realize how much you still don't know.

Dave
 
Hi all, I have a general question for you all about the use of magnets.
I've just about hit 1 week of the AP process with my scrap watches and bracelets.
Today I noticed that the scrap is starting to dissolve, makes me happy 😉
At this point would a magnet be a good idea to fish out magnetic pieces that have given up their precious metals?
Thanks
Steve
 
Hi all, I have a general question for you all about the use of magnets.
I've just about hit 1 week of the AP process with my scrap watches and bracelets.
Today I noticed that the scrap is starting to dissolve, makes me happy 😉
At this point would a magnet be a good idea to fish out magnetic pieces that have given up their precious metals?
Thanks
Steve
Do not use all bold or all cap text, it is considered shouting.
And do not double post.
I deleted your other post.
 
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