Who are you asking?Are the blue capacitors ceramic or film ?
I have had reasonable success using this method:
1) Depopulate the gold-plated PCBs with an electric chisel (it is not worth the time for ENIG plated boards).
2) Heat the "component side" (not the remaining stubby-lead side) outdoors with the propane heater.
3) Quickly hit the board with compressed air. The lead stubbs blow right out the rear of the board.
4) Clean up any remaining solder splash with solder wick and a solder iron.
Advantages:
A) Very little fumes
B) No chemicals
C) Very inexpensive
Hope this helps.
it's not me in the video.Anarxi, GLOVES!
Even if you don't care about your own health, you should set a better example for anyone who watches your videos..
Dave
Are the blue capacitors ceramic or film ?
There will be literally thousands of energy projects in the USA, or other places on planet for that matters.hello , please i need to be in contact with any member of the usa energy projects! who’s the lucky one?
I was unaware that the gold would be dissolved in the solder?! How in the world does it make a good contact point if it’s just gonna dissolveAny gold plate with solder on is dissolved in the solder. If you dissolve the solder in acid or NaOH, you get the gold back as a fine mud. The question is if it's worth it. Often gold plating on solder surfaces are made with ENIG and is just a thin plating so the chemical costs could easily exceed the value of the gold.
Göran
Yea that was new to me. Thank you for pointing it out. I’ve got some things to think about now!If you read Goran's post, there is no reason to reveal ENIG plating under solder. Molten solder is a solvent for precious metals. The gold will be in the solder, not on the board. So if that's your goal, forget it. There will be no gold revealed, it will be in the solder.
another point is that any experienced scrapyard will recognize ENIG. looks great, but not much there.
Removing aluminum, brass, plastic does raise the boards value, but also lowers the weight.... if removing solder pads raises the value, I'm not sure.
Hey thanks! My unlettered and ordinary brain appreciates the pictures too.I have had reasonable success using this method:
1) Depopulate the gold-plated PCBs with an electric chisel (it is not worth the time for ENIG plated boards).
2) Heat the "component side" (not the remaining stubby-lead side) outdoors with the propane heater.
3) Quickly hit the board with compressed air. The lead stubbs blow right out the rear of the board.
4) Clean up any remaining solder splash with solder wick and a solder iron.
Advantages:
A) Very little fumes
B) No chemicals
C) Very inexpensive
Hope this helps.
While a few others were astounded at this bit of information, it is something that was commonly taught in electronics in the 1970s, when we built our own radios from discrete components.Any gold plate with solder on is dissolved in the solder. If you dissolve the solder in acid or NaOH, you get the gold back as a fine mud. The question is if it's worth it. Often gold plating on solder surfaces are made with ENIG and is just a thin plating so the chemical costs could easily exceed the value of the gold.
Göran
I learned electronics in the late eighties and nineties and never heard of it back then. A lot of practical basic information like this gets lost in time.While a few others were astounded at this bit of information, it is something that was commonly taught in electronics in the 1970s, when we built our own radios from discrete components.
Time for more coffee.
I like reading older threads because of that.
Enter your email address to join: